Antarctica - from South America to South Africa: April 2009

Friday, April 10, 2009

Final Posting - Thoughts on Antarctic Voyage

Before my final thoughts on the subject of the Antarctic trip, here is a photo of two of the four lifeboats on the National Geographic Explorer. I am showing this because the current pirate episode off Somalia has the 4 pirates and the captain in a lifeboat such as this. The boats are capable of getting 34 adults in side each, which actually doesn't cover all the passengers (if the ship is full), crew and staff. Hopefully my numbers are incorrect, but it would be really tight is 34 or more individuals had to get in one of these.

I have been asked whether the trip was worth it, and what did it cost.

Yes, it was worth it - the half price made it feasible for me. Yes, I was horribly sick for 2 full days, and not feeling great (no throwing up) for 2 others. Fortunately those 4 days were all at sea, and I really didn't miss much. I met some really nice people, had really good food most of he time (all the diet coke I could handle!), and the staff was very knowledgeable, the crew did a great job (especially those helping to get us in and out of the zodiacs). The only complaint I had with the ship was the VERY SLOW and COSTLY Internet service. One hundred dollars ($ 100) for 4 hours of connectivity was very expensive and excessive.

From what I have gathered, there were many favorable things about the voyage that might not be available on other like trips. I can't imagine getting into zodiacs in heavy seas by walking down a gangplank and then into a bobbing zodiac. There is no way it could be done with the assistance provided to us. I have heard that this is the way the Russian icebreakers get their passengers into zodiacs. There ships were not built for this kind of exiting, as wall the NG Explorer. Having stabilizers on the ship also, for me, helped a great deal. Who knows what I would have been like without them (even if they are not applicable when anchored). It was also very nice not having a roommate. And the entire ship, not just our rooms, were kept immaculate, and the staff was always friendly.

I would say a 'normal' trip to Antarctica would be of shorter length (since it wouldn't end up at Cape Town, would skip Tristan da Cunha, but would include the Falkland Islands) would cost in the neighborhood of $ 18,000 to $ 20,000 with all the flights and fees, etc. And that would assume the smallest cabin, as mine was on the ship.

The trip is a once in a lifetime, and worth doing if one like ice, penguins, whales, birds and seals.
And, of course, can handle the seas.

This is the end of my blogging. Thanks to those who have kept up with my pictures and text.

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Last days at Sea and Cape Town, South Africa

Another day at sea, then Cape Town and its harbor are sighted only 30 minutes out as we await the harbor pilot to join us for the trip into the harbor. Then the wind comes up, and we wait 24 hours, steaming in circles offshore, until finally making port. A hurried half day in Cape Town, then the bus to the airport.

Wandering Albatross. This position of the wings shows that they do actually have to flap the wings at times.

As does this - end of albatross pictures.

Just outside Cape Town, South Africa. Sunrise with the wind calm. Table Mountain has the huge cloud hanging over it, and the wind is about to blow, spoiling our time in Cape Town. The last thing I wanted was to spend another day on the sea. And the hotel waiting for us was really nice.
The seas were calm.

Another ship waiting to enter the port of Cape Town. Notice the seas compared to the previous picture.

Sunset with wind still blowing. Table Mountain is on the left, and the other peak is Lion Head(?).

Shantytown, Cape Town, South Africa from the bus taking us to the airport.

Shantytown, Cape Town, South Africa, from the bus on the way to the airport.

Me (Geoff) on top deck of National Geographic Explorer outside Cape Town, South Africa, just as the wind came up. The bad hair day is a combination of the wind and honoring the rockhopper penguins. I wouldn't have been smiling had I known at this point that another day would be spent on the ship.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

On to Cape Town, South Africa

Upon leaving Tristan da Cunha, after 2 days of having my feet on land during the major part of each day (and after 4 days at sea from South Georgia), we headed for South Africa and an expected 4 days again at sea. Yellow-nosed albatrosses again ruled the day.

Staying dry

Yellow-nosed Albatross

Yellow-nosed Albatross just above ship's wake.

Yellow-nosed Albatrosses flying together

Albatrosses flying above the ship's wake.

Inaccessible Island, Tristanda Cunha Group

Inaccessible Island is truly named. Its name comes from the fct that volcanic cliffs rise vertically nearly the entire circumference of the island. It has been a protected nature reserve since 1994, and together with Gough Island (south of the three islands we visited), a World Heritage Site, accounts for 40% of the land mass within the Tristan da Cunha Group. We were able to make landfall, and it is very unusual for groups of our size and limited time, to make landfall on all three islands. We were able to only be on roughly 200 yards of beach (rocks), and weren't able to go more than 50 feet from the waters edge. While Inaccessible is home to the sooty albatross and the most northern population of wandering albatrosses, we only saw more Rockhopper Penguins on the beach.

This is right by the landing site, and shows the near vertical walls of Inaccessible Island.

Rockhopper penguin. Almost looks like its hungover and deciding whether will ocean will revive its spirits.

Rockhopper penguins and waves

Rockhopper penguin - a 'Yoda' like figure

Rockhopper penguin hopping. Good form for a long jumper!

Group photography of rockhoppers.

Rockhopper penguin togetherness

Rockhopper penguins heading back for their nests - in the tall, impenetrable grass. And not too concerned with the large mammals sitting on their beach.

The last one heading for the nest

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Nightingale Island, Tristan Group - Part 2 of 2

Yellow-nosed Albatross breed on Nightingale. We hiked to see their nests, where very large chicks were still lodged. They would be flying soon. The nests were right on the trail, and as you will see, we couldn't go anywhere but the trail. When we would get to close to the chicks they would clack their large bills, all the while staying in the nests.

Head shot of Yellow-nosed Albatross chick

Yellow-nosed Albatross and Chick. Notice the nest in relationship to the chick,

Yellow-nosed Albatross and chick. The trail goes right by the nest, and the grasses are really thick on both sides of the trail.

Yellow-nosed Albatross and Chick.

Yellow-nosed Albatross and Chick

Yellow-nosed Albatross and Chick interacting.

Yellow-nosed Albatross and Chick

Yellow-nosed Albatross and Chick.

Passing an albatross nest on the trail

Nightingale Island, Tristan Group - Part 1 of 2

Nightingale Island is about 27 miles from the town of Edinburgh, Tristan da Cunha, and has nesting Yellow-nosed Albatross and Rockhopper Penguins. If I thought the Macaroni Penguins had 'a wild look', I was mistaken - the honor goes to the Rockhopper penguin, easily. Here are a few photos...